Shawl with Kharek Embroidery
Designer
Godavriben Bhimaji
(Indian, 20th century)
Manufacturer
Shrujan, Threads of Life
(20th century)
Date2010
MediumWool with embroidery and mirror work
DimensionsOverall: 36 × 83 1/2 inches (91.44 × 212.09 cm)
Credit LineGift of Mr. and Mrs. Bipin Avashia
Object number2010.74.3
On View
Not on viewCollections
DescriptionThe wool shawl is orange with embroidery in green, gold, purple and red thread and applied mirror work. The embroidery creates a geometric design of repeating chevrons, known as "leher" or "wave" patterns, across the main field of the shawl. The chevrons are filled with radiating floral motifs. The warp ends of the shawl are ornamented by striped borders, created by green and red checked embroidery patterns, divided by a band of floral and vase motifs. The warp ends are loose, creating a decorative fringe at each end of the shawl.The embroidery style used in this shawl is known as "Kharek." This is a style associated with the Sodha Rajput, and Meghwal communities in Kutch. The design is created from the back of the shawl as embroiderers count threads, similar to techniques of rug knotters, to determine where to pull threads through the fabric. This technique creates a geometric-looking design. The stitch used in this shawl is a satin stick, known as "Soof." Soof which means "only one stitch." Through careful pulling of the thread along the same wefts and at precise counts in the warp, the Soof embroiderer carefully replicates the appearance of loom-woven designs in her hand stitching.
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