Orphrey Fragment

CultureItalian or Spanish

Datelate 16th-early 17th century

MediumSilk and linen

DimensionsOverall: 23 7/8 × 8 3/8 inches (60.63 × 21.29 cm)

Credit LineSource unknown

Object number2008.45

On View

Not on view

Collections

Architecture, Design and Decorative Arts

Terms

DescriptionThe Orphrey Panel is a long rectangle with a "V"-shaped split beginning in the middle of the top edge. The ground of the panel is red velvet, which is surrounded by a border of gold velvet. There is a loss of the gold border on the upper, proper right corner, where the linen background is visible. The panel is decorated with applied pieces of white, gold, green and light blue velvet, most of which are outlined with thin, white cording. Beginning at the top of the panel, on each side, are 4 gold, white and green leaves that are attached to serpentine lines of white cording, which ends in the beaks of 2 birds. The birds have blue eyes, white bodies, red-outlined feathers and green wings, all of which are outlined in a thin, gold cording. The birds rest on large white and gold scrolls with green leaves that terminate in white dragon heads with teeth and stitched eyes and eyelashes. Between the dragon heads is a chalice with a gold bowl and a green stem and base. Below the chalice is a white ovoid-shaped cartouche bordered with alternating loop and scroll forms. Within the cartouche are the initials "IHS" in gold and green, crowned with a green tree trunk, laying on its side with one leaf.Gallery Label

Gallery Label

During the 1500s and 1600s in Italy and Spain, textiles with three-dimensional effects became popular within the Christian church. To create relief images, embroiderers attached applied work, or appliqués, onto garments, such as this orphrey, a decorative panel for church vestments. The orphrey’s motifs were formed by first stitching small pieces of fabric, such as those for the birds’ white bodies, onto a base cloth. Padding may have been stuffed in between the layers of fabric to achieve added dimension, and then the various shapes were outlined and detailed with cording. The appliqués, including dragon heads and birds flanking a chalice, are arranged in a symmetrical design. The panel is dominated by a medallion bordered with a scroll motif encompassing the Latin monogram of Jesus Christ, IHS.

Information about a particular artwork or image, including provenance information, is based upon historic information and may not be currently accurate or complete. Research on artwork and images is an ongoing process, and the information about a particular artwork or image may not reflect the most current information available to the Museum. If you notice a mistake or have additional information about a particular artwork or image, please e-mail provenance@nelson-atkins.org.