Pair of Coral Hairpins
Manchu Court Art, Stanford (CA) University Museum, mid-November 1954-February 6, 1955.
Emperors, Scholars and Temples: Tastemakers of China’s Ming and Qing Dynasties, The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, August 12, 2016 – July 9, 2017.
Jewelry was a key part of every elegant woman’s ensemble. Upper-class women spent a large amount of time on elaborate hairstyles with the help of maids and would often incorporate jewelry in their hair designs. Ornate hairpins complemented pendant earrings. When the wearer moved, the hairpins and earrings would catch the light and dazzle viewers with their brilliance.
Chinese jewelers often incorporated kingfisher feathers, jade, corals, precious stones, gold and silver into these objects to skillfully create floral elements, butterflies, bats and dragons. These motifs were both beautiful and auspicious.
A close look reveals exquisite details. The earrings recall a pair of dragons extending their long tongues. The large hairpin features squirrels and grapes, common symbols that promised fertility to the wearer.
C. Frances Bieber;
Purchased from C. Frances Bieber by The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, MO, 1933.